Cross Country Ski Resorts

Cross-country comes first in Seefeld – this ‘home of langlaufen’ is Austria’s, if not the continent’s, skinny-skiing capital. Five villages make up the Olympiaregion area and between them you’ll find 279km of trails to roam, split almost evenly between classic and skate. Most run across the sunny, snow-sure Seefeld plateau, which has twice played host to Olympic Nordic events and is a regular stop on the World Cup tour. Local instructors will ease beginners from the gentle Wildsee trails onto to the first-rate grooves of the Wildmoos area; XC-Academy (led by Olympian Martin Tauber) run group lessons, 1:1 sessions and Biathlon classes. With corking views of the valley, the Gaistal loop on the Leutasch plateau is a must-ski for rolling terrain, while the 1.9km A2 Lehner trail (both classic and skating) attracts dog owners with its Fido-friendly label. We especially like the 3km groomer between Seefeld and Mosern which is floodlit if you fancy a spot of skiing after hours.

If clocking up the mileage is top priority, Geilo reigns supreme. 550km of trails wind through truly spectacular valleys, across wide plateaus and along the highest quality grooves – and they’re often open for a long season from October through to May. A top spot has to be the Ustedalen Lake: 15km of tramlines split off and loop around it, cutting through silver birches and pines, passing Viking burial sites and ancient bridges. Up on the peaks, fluttering ptarmigan, curious reindeer and timid elk line the routes. Follow the blues and reds over to Ustaoset where a 16km circuit visits traditional Norse cabins that have been part of the landscape for generations. Brave the 5km frozen lake crossing from Storenuten, before gliding back to Ustaoset on the steady 13.km blue. Back in Geilo, you’ll find instructors and guides aplenty in the Nordic centre, ready and waiting to share the country’s national past time with newbies. They also lead tours over into the dramatic terrain in Northern Finse, were there’s at least 4 days’ of fun to be had.

Ylläs has a fabulously long (October – May) ski season. One reason the doors stay open so long is the sheer size of the place: a whopping 330km of seriously pretty, groomed terrain circles the resort, venturing into the other-worldly wilderness of Pallas-Ylläs national park. Here, trails for every level creep through silent woodland - follow the tramlines for a memorable loop on blues and blacks, down rolling fells and across fields of flawless white. Laplander huts are dotted around the park, where warming fires and roasting bratwursts await to banish any winter chills. Also keeping toes toasty are the ‘warm tracks’, where temperatures score 15 degrees warmer than down in the village… 38km of floodlit lines keeps the XC going into the evening and on Lapland’s Polar nights, doubling up as the route back home at the end of the day.

This area’s crammed with romantic side valleys and its 220km of prepared runs glide along the very best of them. 80km skirt the shores or cross the waters of enormous, crystal lakes – we love the 12km course over the Sils, Silvaplana and Champfèr that dances across the Isola Peninsula. Big numbers are no uncommon sight in St M, with the 35km La Pachifica and 65km La Diagonela routes testing the hardiest skiers (no wonder visitors get extra hours of practice on the night-skiing trails in town). The most laborious gets global recognition when the Engadin Ski Marathon comes to town: 13,000 skiers descend on St Moritz every March to attempt the 42km endurance test between Maloja and S-Chanf (Pippa Middleton aced it a while back), which crams in steeps, crosses lakes and climbs through forests.

Dolomiti Nordic Ski is Europe’s biggest trail network and Kronplatz is one of the region’s shining stars. With top class snow making capabilities, a web of easy and intermediate groomers and a gargantuan total of 300km to ski, this place has it all sussed. The Nordic Ski School are on hand for any and every level; join one of their safaris to follow in expert footsteps (they do a super tour to the Kasern mountain hut, then onto Antholz for a spot of biathlon training). At 35km, the longest trail’s mildly easier to ski than it is to get your tongue around: the ‘Val Casies Monguelfo Tesido - Gsieser Tal Welsberg Taisten’ hosts the annual Gsieser Tal Lauf marathon for the ultimate test. For something a little less trying, head to the foot of the mountain where the easy-going Olang is a smooth 5km ride on the outskirts, or ski the Kronplatz summit trail, a 0.7km flat loop with tip-top grooves and groomed snow. The intermediate route from St. Vigil is perfect for progression, easing into slightly more challenging territory as you approach Pederü. Heading up Mount Kronplatz, the 700m route below the Ruis cable car peak station mixes it up with a touch of bumpiness, and views of the Dolomites worth seeing again and again (and again).

The Wilder Kaiser mountain range has 500km of marvellous cross-country offerings, and there’s 60km of classic and skate skiing (plus the illuminated Golf Club trail) in Kitz alone. Local pro and Nordic Ski team member David Kreiner has vetted the terrain and last time we checked, it was all free to ski… High-lying routes span every level, with a lack of steep climbs letting everyone in on the action. The trails in and around Pass Thurn and Kirchberg are known for their excellent snow, where the terrain is almost evenly split between red, blue and black. Winning the gong for eye-popping scenery is the Aschau bei Kirchberg trail – have cameras at the ready, as the views of the Tyrolean town in the distance are nothing short of spectacular. Another must-ski is the 20km Sonnenloipe trail to Kirchberg, which passes through the cross-country service centre (for all things XC plus fabulous Gluhwein…).

As the training ground of the Swiss, Russian, Swedish, and Norwegian Nordic ski teams, Davos is definitely doing something right. Höfmanner’s (in the centre of town) is the original XC outfitters, providing servicing and equipment for the pro’s, skiers and novices who take to the trails each year. A whopping great 4000m2 store of snow helps kick off the season in October – earlier than any other resorts in the area – and as peak season hits, over 100km of classic routes and 46km of skating lines spring up in the valleys and villages. The Sertig and Dischmatal valleys have newcomers covered, where the trails are gentle and extremely relaxed. Kick it up a notch on the classic 10km Loipe Wolfgang that sweeps past the charming mountain village of Schwendi (keep an eye out for the red beacon of the Rhaetian Railway, which occasionally darts through the white landscape). It takes nerves (and buns…) of steel to conquer the super challenging, super steep Cologna Stutz section in the Flulatal Valley, fondly named after the local langlauf champion. Speak of the devil, Dario Cologna’s part of the furniture here, and it’s not uncommon to ski alongside him on the world cup ski runs (also in Flülatal).

Having hosted Finland’s first Ladies World Cup in 2004 (and the Men’s 2 years later), Levi’s firmly made its mark in the history books. 230km of tracks make up the Nordic network here, which is gloriously different from the trails in the Alps. You’ll probably pass more reindeer than people, and the trails lead through miles of the wintry wilderness that Lapland does best. Levi Ski School are on hand to help perfect the double pole push, and you can log a few hours of after-dark practice on the 28km of illuminated trails. These keep things ticking over when Lapland’s mid-winter daylight is limited, meaning you needn’t lose out on ski time but get the added bonus of a cross-country ski holiday with a possible sighting of the incredible northern lights.

The local valley has 8 lovely loops covering 45km (including 10km for skaters), which can be accessed from the villages of Montier Les Bains, Guibertes and Villeneuve. Montier’s home to a biathlon stadium and the fabulous 13km red-gladed Chalp trail, which takes you along 13km through larch forest and the historic Pont des Granges aquaduct. Les Guibertes has a Nordic Centre with a picnic area, plus a terrific 11km red-graded run, a 5km blue and 1km green, which link to form scenic circuits through the Guisane Valley. Experts will want to head to Villneuve, where an endurance-testing 27km black trail leads through charming hamlets on the way to Pont des Chirouzas, then returns via the Biathlon stadium. There’s much, much more within easy reach – expand your search by 5 miles and an enormous 282km of trails become yours to roam.

The Paradiski contains a socking great 153km of Nordic trails, with La Plagne’s share divided between 4 different areas. Newbies should head to Montalbert for its learners-only circuits and Plagne Soleil, which has gently sloping routes of different distances. After those, mile upon mile of trails take you to ancient villages and past the mighty Bellecôte glacier. For seasoned XC skiers, there’s the lengthy, challenging and high-altitude Champagny circuit and a terrific forest trail above Les Coches. Having a car opens up even more opportunity, including the Bellecôte Valley’s Nordic Area in Peisey-Nancroix which unlocks one of the prettiest parts of the Tarentaise.