Sundance Ski Holidays

Robert Redford once said that when Sundance opened in 69’, waiters were a no-show and the owners had to wait on tables... Today, the original Jay Gatsby might not be asking if you’d like chilli with your nachos, but the resort still has the serene, remote feel that it had when it first started. When he purchased Sundance, the actor and producer covered his ears as New York big dogs told him to cram the canyon with lucrative hotels and ten-a-penny condos. In his view, this was the place for an epic artistic experiment instead.

Chances are, you’ve heard of Sundance already. The Sundance Film Festival, set up by Redford, is partially held here every winter. This is the most action the humble western frontier-style village - infused with lots of Native American soul - sees all year. More like a yoga retreat than a ski resort, trails and cabins wind through the trees and walks are delicately lit up at night. If you don’t leave feeling like nothing’s wrong with the world, you should have yourself looked at...

Humble is one word for the village, but the skiing is definitely not. Sundance is a part of the powder capital of the world - Utah - and sees 350 inches of powder a season. Climb the 2150 vertical feet up Mount Timpanogos (on whose north face are the remnants of a glacier), and the 360° views of the Wasatch Mountains will make you feel like a dot on the landscape.

“What you smell, taste and see here is a dream being carefully nurtured” as the loquacious Mr R once put it. And it’s clearly a dream many think you should share, judging from the size of the awards cabinet (with showings from Conde Nast, Travel+Leisure and Forbes).

It’s as though the fine folk at Sundance have intentionally downplayed the terrain on their piste map (perhaps to keep the crowds from coming). But if you know where to look, this little piece of paradise is all kinds of awesome. 4 lifts can unlock a lot of terrain, and Ray’s quad has 3 stops for different levels.

For beginners, it’s a short walk to the handle tow and nursery slopes from base, where access is usually 100% free. Brush up on the bunny slope here then head up Ray’s lift. Like an elevator for your progression to skiing blues, this has mile-wide cruisers increasing in difficulty as you go up. Start at the mid-station for green Stampede, practice here and on the long cat tracks elsewhere, then get back on Ray’s to head for the summit. The views here shouldn’t be missed out on. Blue runs Bear Claw and Roundup will take you on a curving, scenic route back to base to do it all again.

With lots of long winding blues, and several gentle blacks to fast track progression, intermediates are in good hands. Waste no time and start at the summit. Enjoy the views on Bear Claw on the way down to the base of the Flathead lift. This will take you to black level Bishop’s Bowl, which should be a manageable “first” black run in good conditions.

Official figures say only 20% of the terrain is advanced, but the reality is different. From the peak, lines of steep ridges, gullies and bowls stream down to a mid-mountain valley and these aren’t included in the stats. Most make a bee line for Bishop’s Bowl, but Far East is an alternative, often with better snow.

Trees line all runs and can generally all be skied between. In fact, nearly 100% of the terrain on the mountain’s top half can be and these nooks and crannies are some of the juiciest bits. The most “secret” stashes are in the Black Forest – but you didn’t hear it from us!

Extra special is the night skiing here, which leaves the lights on 4 days a week (in most resorts it’s one or two). The majority of the front mountain is illuminated and the ski school even offers night skiing classes (private or group).

Rustic, refined, plus the kind of service you’d write home about, with restaurants like these, you don’t need dozens of options to have fun. Dine in elegance at the Tree Room, exceptional for wait-staff who’ll tell you they’re “on your time” and know which wines to recommend.

The Foundry Grill has the stylish rusticity of a Country Life spread, and a dessert menu with warm skillet cookies we’d do unspeakable things for.

For afterhours tipples, the Owl Bar makes your standard umbrella bar deathly pale by comparison. Reportedly constructed in the 1890’s and shipped in from Wyoming, this was once frequented by Butch Cassidy’s crew (and has the bullet holes to prove it). Live music here at weekends is always a popular event, showcasing local talent.

Since getting your zen on is a big part of life here, non-skiing activities naturally include mountain top yoga, nature walks and “rebalancing” massages at the eco spa.

But there’s excitement to be had too. The 3870ft Sundance ZipTour is the 6th longest zipline in the US, with double cables so chums can ride the wind (at up to 65mph) side-by-side. Adventure seekers will also be thrilled by snowmobiling and ice climbing trips to the Wasatch mountains. Equally unique, the Art Studio runs classes 3 times a day, so you can unleash the inner Rodin on everything from pottery and oil painting to photography.