Cauterets Ski Holidays

This small, historic spa town is part of the Pyrenees National Park, near the Spanish border. The great and the good of the 19th century would come here for the healing nature of its thermal baths and the landscape of gurgling gorges, gushing waterfalls, ancient bridges and chapels - Victor Hugo, Baudelaire, Debussy and Louis-Napoleon Bonaparte among them. The nearness to pilgrimage site Lourdes was (and remains) another big attraction.

Current Cauterets’ architecture harks back to that golden age, with grand balconies, Belle Epoque lamp posts and sculptured facades. Thermes de Cauterets has an ever growing list of therapies for aches and ailments, in the Cesear baths and Thermes des Griffons. Esplanade des Œufs recently had a facelift to preserve its old glamour, and is home to one of the prettiest cinemas you’ll ever see. Since skiing was introduced in the 20th century it’s played a significant role in the town’s development. A 12-minute cable car ride takes you up to Cirque du Lys, where 36km of pistes spread out before you.

7km deeper into the national parkland is the same stone arch - Pont d’Espagne (or Spanish bridge) - that traders once used to cross the border and great Romantic poets waxed lyrical about. Besides being one of the best known beauty spots in the Pyrenees, it’s home to an alpine and Nordic ski area with incredible woodland surroundings.

Cauterets’ local ski area is Cirque du Lys, where you’ll find nearly all pistes covered by the ski pass, apart from the two over in Pont d’Espagne – one red, one blue – that trail through trees.

Though if you’re here for the cross country, Pont d’Espagne is where you’ll want to spend most of your time. It has five cross country circuits totalling 36.5km – they’re fabulous, passing waterfalls, woodland and altogether glorious scenery.

The ESI and ESF ski schools teach on beginner runs in both ski areas.

In Cirque du Lys, the general nature of the slopes is slightly more challenging than you’d find elsewhere (e.g. the blues can sometimes be more like reds) but the usually excellent snow cover makes them easy to handle. The blue Crêtes piste streams down the ridge from the top point at 2415m, giving some wonderful views of Vignemale, the highest peak in the French Pyrenees. Runs like blue Gentiane and Chardon, red Martagon and black Combe du barbat and Orchis branch off from this if you fancy a bit of variety or upping the ante.

Intermediates should connect over to the Touyarolles chair, where you can take the lift up to the Malh Blanc and Edelweiss slopes from 2370m, or head back towards Gare du Lys on the Asphodele run.

Thanks to the good annual snowfall, there are some brilliant off piste routes to soar down – get in touch with a local guide who will be able to show you the best terrain.

The star of the show here is the Oakley Park, which was the first snow park in the Pyrenees and the second in France to be sponsored by Oakley… It comes with features of all difficulties including one-of-a-kind obstacles like the O-rail. Get to it via the Grand Barbat chair.

Stop off at Yeti Croq for speedy snacks, or nab a table at the Ski Bar on the town square which makes for a good gathering place.

Food wise, La Grande Fache whips up traditional French mountain foods like tartiflette and raclette – but you’ll want to book a table since though it’s quite a small restaurant, it’s very popular. We like Le 88 for pizzas and burgers and Creperie du Moulleau’s a favourite for sweet and savoury pancakey goodness.

If you’re hankering after something sugary, head to Refuge de Sens for amazing chocolates, puddings and hot chocs.

There’s an ice rink in town, as well as a cinema while those seeking more snowy fun will find a toboggan run over in Pont d’Espagne.

Lourdes is half an hour’s drive away if you fancy a day trip to the world renowned catholic pilgrimage site.