Andermatt Ski Holidays

Andermatt is so textbook Swiss you’d know you were here even if you’d never been to the country before. The Lepontine Alps huddle round the town like friends round a fondue, cow bells chime and dramatic mountain passes fan out in all directions around a timber-framed, chimney topped village. Even the petrol station has history – having appeared in the Bond movie, Goldfinger, as Sean Connery fills up his Aston Martin after a car chase on the nearby Furka pass.

Locals used to say mountains here were riddled with stores of the nation’s gold – and of the skiing gold variety they certainly are. Not 1, but 2 ski areas sit immediately above the village, of which 2963m Gemsstock is 24-carat quality, swathed in off-piste couloirs that could teach other “expert mountains” a thing or two (this is where Switzerland gathers for its "King of the Mountain" freestyle events). Nätschen, by contrast, is a mountain that inspires confidence in intermediates and dreamy eyes in all, reached by a little red train.

To get back to gold, there’s an awful lot of it going into this resort at present. The SkiArena Andermatt-Sedrun project is set to see a shiny new fleet of lifts linking Andermatt with the plateau at Oberalp and the Sedrun ski area in the next few of years, opening up the largest ski area in central Switzerland. In town, luxury hotels and chalets shoot up like wildflowers. But as Andermatt gets flasher and flasher, we’re sure the mountains, the cows and the train will keep it grounded.

Cable cars on opposite sides of the village lead to the two ski areas above Andermatt; Nätschen to the north-east and Gemsstock to the south, between which there’s some seriously gnarly off-piste that makes up for the fact there aren’t reels of runs. Neither’s lifts are the most modern but that’s half their charm and, for now, keeps the crowds at bay. We love that you can actually take a 10-minute train to Nätschen which, with a little patience, also rolls on to Sedrun and a ton more beginner terrain and operates late one night a week for night skiing there. It won’t be long till this is all lift served and central Switzerland’s largest ski area.

At present, two dedicated progression lifts at Nätschen and an easy blue run from Gutsch to the village are the crux of the novice terrain here, and beautiful though these may be, they’ll get old. Beginners should take the railway through the Oberalp pass to Sedrun. As learner friendly an area as you’ll find, this has the smoothest of progressions from carpet slopes to gentle blues and even cruisy reds if you make it that far, all included on a SkiArena lift pass.

Intermediates are much more at home in the immediate resorts, with wide open red runs and pacey blues on both mountains, plus a long black for more experienced skiers and snowboarders. When you start repeating runs, there’s once again the train to take you to further fields. Zigzag down reds through Calmut, Val-Val and on to Sedrun for an epic adventure before catching the choo choo back. Don’t be put off Gemsstock by tales of its terrifyingness. The Sonnenpiste is a wide, open-air red from the summit all the way back to the Gurschen middle station with views that’ll send you off-piste if you’re not careful.

An expert mountain, no doubt about it, Gemsstock is a destination ski area for any serious snow lovers. The gorgeous black Russi run across the Gurschen Glacier to the middle station is worth the trip alone. But it’s the off-piste here that you’ll put in your memoirs… Dedicate at least one mid-morning to the challenging Guspis route towards the village of Hospental for lunch in the Gasthaus St Gotthard (taxi or bus it back).

There are very good conditions for snowboarding here thanks to the wide free riding areas and the biggest half pipe in Central Switzerland at Sedrun, and a school dedicated to boarding.

When lifts to Sedrun open, this will be a different (read: even more epic) story. For now, enjoy the tranquility.

Après takes a back seat in Andermatt, but the resort manages to muster a few lively pubs and with the swish new Chedi bar, things have taken a step in the direction of mixologists and champagne. Head to fun, wooden Spycher for pizzas in which you’ll taste the proximity of Italy, or seek out traditional Swiss dishes like egg-topped rösti served by waiters in lederhosen at the Gasthaus Zum Sternen. One of our favourite things about eating out here is that prices tend to be a lot less than you’d find elsewhere in Switzerland.

For anything resembling real fun after dinner, you’ll usually have to wait till the weekend. In the week, be super sophisticated at the Chedi’s wine and cigar library. You can make up for it on Saturday in underground Pinte, where it’s all about that bass and packed with bright young things.

Besides maxing and relaxing on food and drink, off-slope activities include the Chedi’s Asian-inspired spa, where there’s a panoramic pool that you’ll want to go all wrinkly in. Out of doors you can try ice climbing, skate on natural rinks, take a sleigh ride through town, get tobogganing on the 5km (closed to traffic) Oberalp Pass road, and just generally soak up all this Swissness.