Taos Ski Holidays

Everything about Taos, apart from the name (it’s pronounced like 'house' with a T), sounds lusciously Hispanic. Set in New Mexico’s Sangre De Cristo Mountain range, beneath 12481ft Kachina Peak, and 18 miles from an old Spanish pueblo from 1540.

The ski resort, in fact, was founded back in 1955 by not-so-Spanish Ernie Blake and his wife, Rhoda. A tough man for a tough mountain, Ernie had been an interrogator of German war criminals and a suspected spy by turns. The couple lived in an 11ft camper and without electricity for decades, pouring their heart and soul into the hills. Today this home-grown feel can still be appreciated in the European style ski village, and many of its staff are in fact second or third generation descendants of Ernie and Rhoda.

A reflection of its history, the town of Taos just 25 minutes down the valley is a melting pot of influences; Hispanic, European and Native American. Many choose to stay here and commute to the slopes, as it has more and cheaper hotels, a thriving art scene and livelier nightlife than the mountain village, which compensates with ski-in/ski-out access. Staff clearly enjoy their work at both, and it shows in the friendly service.

More than a smashing place to ski, this is also one of the most sustainable ski resorts on the planet. The first ever B Corp resort, Taos offsets the carbon output of its airline and moves mountains to minimise water and energy use as well as waste production. Nearly everything you eat has been sourced locally and you'll struggle to find a plastic water bottle anywhere.

The warm welcome, unique cultural experience and formidable terrain make many ardently passionate about Taos. They’ll tell you it’s well worth the trip to get there. We’re inclined to agree.

Over half the marked trails are black or double black and there are also lots of great chutes and terrifying off-piste. If you don’t like to repeat runs, Taos might not entertain beginners and intermediates for more than a few days. But If you’re an advanced intermediate looking to push yourself, this could be a very good fit.

Beginners will be delighted to learn that they can experience all the iconic views of Taos from almost day 1, since the green runs aren't heaped in a cluster at the bottom of the mountain. Almost every chairlift (there are 11 of them) has a green from its summit. To get you ready to ski these, first timers can build confidence in comfort on the Pioneer lift and slightly more difficult Strawberry Hill lift near the base. Take the greens down from lift 4 to the Bavarian Lodge and imbibe until the lifts close – a shuttle bus will take you back to base.

A lot of the intermediate runs at Taos lean towards the more difficult side, meaning the more advanced are more at home. But this can also mean quick progression for someone who’s more used to casual cruising. Start at the trails off Lift 7 to get a feel for the pitch of the terrain and work your way up to steeper descents like Porcupine and the Powderhorn bowl. A Race Clinic with the ski school will do your technique a world of good.

Taos has always been a mountain for experts, however, or at least for those willing to push themselves and get off the groomers. 45% of the piste map is black and features some of the best tree-line skiing and longest uninterrupted fall-lines in the US. The only potential downside was that many of the runs required a hike – but that’s no issue anymore. A lift now reaches Kachina Peak, where the steep chutes and gullies are abundant. Less tracked-out areas that still involve a short hike (like West Ridge) remain challenging and blissfully powdery.

For cross country you've 33km of trails – where you may spot a local 'skijoring' (skiing with their dog…).

Like the staff in town, many of the ski instructors at the Ernie Blake Snowsports school have worked here for more than 20 years – unlike the rotating young workforce of many other resorts – and know the terrain like the back of their hand. Book in for a clinic to supercharge your technique.

It’s said that the founder Ernie Blake used to hide pitchers of martinis in trees around the mountain for skiers needing a glug of liquid courage… Today, generous bouts of daytime drinking is still how this resort likes to play – with tall glasses of German beer out on sun-blasted patios, or hot cocktails tucked away indoors. The Bavarian Lodge sundeck is a favourite for beers, soft pretzels and dirndl-dressed staff. Don’t leave without trying a green chile cheeseburger, piled high with blue cheese and pickles. The St Bernard Lodge fries them up on the patio.

Half a dozen bars make up the afterhours options, including the Martini Tree, where you can pay tribute to Blake with a pitcher of his favourite tipple. For a slice of Swissness, the Thunderbird Lodge plays live jazz in the surrounds of old ski chalet with roaring fireplaces. If you’re feeling energetic try the tubing hill, ice skating, snowshoeing or snowmobiling.

For more excitement, and a stronger taste of the area’s Spanish roots, head to Taos town. “Organic before organic was cool”, the Mexican meals here are in a league of their own. Expect to be asked if you are green or red (local speak for hot or mild). The Love Apple, housed in a former 19th century Catholic church dishes out baked tamales and delicious skillets of queso fundido with ingredients all sourced from local farmers. Perfect for a culture vulture, snazzy boutiques and art museums abound and even the liveliest nightspots (Alley Cantina probably takes gold), are housed in centuries-old structures.