The Ultimate Guide to Val d’Isère Après Ski Bars & Nightlife

Val d’Isère’s après ski and nightlife isn’t just legendary, it’s the stuff of ski holiday folklore. From 2,400m mountain parties on the slopes, to underground techno clubs, this Alpine powerhouse delivers non-stop action that starts when the first afternoon rays hit the slopes and doesn’t quit until the breakfast croissants arrive.

In my last two decades skiing and partying here, I’ve tried and tested (tasted) the lot – champagne-soaked cabaret shows, Viking-themed pub crawls, sophisticated wine bars with roaring fires – Val d’Isère serves it all with a side of altitude and attitude. Like its more affordable neighbour Tignes, the resort’s geography creates variety. Everything concentrates between the main Val Village, La Daille, and Le Fornet, connected by free shuttles that run until 2am. No wonder seasoned skiers plan entire trips around the après ski here.

Whatever the time of day or night, and no matter the vibe you’re looking for, I’ve got you covered. Here’s my ultimate guide to VDI après and night life:

Mountain & Slope-Side Après Ski (2:00 PM – 5:00 PM)

Legendary Venues

La Folie Douce    Perched at 2,400m above La Daille, La Folie Douce has achieved mythical status in the après ski world. This isn’t just a bar – it’s a full-scale production featuring cabaret dancers, acrobats, and DJs spinning French house to 800 people. We always dance on the tables in ski boots.

The madness officially kicks off at 3pm with their legendary show, but we always book lunch tables before 2pm to ensure a place. Yes, the €8 beers and €15 cocktails sting but, when you’re watching can-can dancers perform at altitude while champagne rains down from the terrace, price becomes irrelevant. My enduring memory is of legendary compere Kelly Starlight sashaying across the stage dressed as Tutankhamun amid a dozen scantily clad female pharoah dancers… you get the picture.

Getting there couldn’t be easier – take the La Daille gondola and follow the bass-drum. Getting down after several hours of “Folie fun” requires more caution. The resort’s rescue services know the 5pm descent well, having scraped many overconfident revellers off the Face piste.

SNO Pro tip: if you’ve fully embraced La Follie experience, arrange a sober guide or take the gondola down.

Their “WTF Wednesdays” have become the stuff of legend, with themed parties that get progressively wilder as the season progresses. One regular described witnessing “a Russian oligarch order 20 bottles of Dom Pérignon, then spray half of them over the crowd while the DJ played the national anthem.”

Cocorico    While La Folie Douce grabs headlines with theatrical excess, Cocorico delivers the purest ski-in, ski-out après ski experience in the Alps. Positioned perfectly at the bottom of the OK piste below the Solaise bubble, you can literally ski to the bar – allegedly several patrons have overshot the entrance and ended up in the kitchen.

The venue’s genius lies in its transformation. At 1pm, families tuck into reasonably-priced tartiflette. By 4pm, those same tables groan under the weight of dancing Brits and Scandinavians – discovering 3-5pm happy hour makes Val d’Isère prices almost reasonable. The 400-capacity terrace reaches maximum chaos on sunny March afternoons when the DJ drops Swedish House Mafia and the entire crowd erupts. The table-dancing tradition started organically but now it’s mandatory by 4:30pm.

Classic Slope-Side Spots

L’Ouillette (2,300m)    Just below the Madeleine chairlift, L’Ouillette combines serious mountain dining with serious partying. The terrace has terrific views across to La Grande Motte glacier, while inside, the restaurant serves all the Savoyard classics the SNO team love.

The DJ transforms it from lunch to party venue at 3pm and by 4pm fur-clad Russians dance alongside seasonaires spending their week’s wages on overpriced rosé. The BBQ on the terrace draws crowds. I recommend their ‘special’ vin chaud (spiked with local génépi).

Le Signal (Le Fornet, 2,480m)    Recently crowned “Best Mountain Restaurant in Europe,” Le Signal deserves mention if you prefer quality over quantity. Not a party venue per se, but the wine list and truffle menu create their own kind of afternoon intoxication. Signal is really popular so book ahead.

Bar de l’Ouillette    Not the same as L’Ouillette restaurant, the bar is on the piste with a south-facing terrace. The vibe is relaxed, attracting an older crowd for good wine and the ability to hear conversation. The cheese fondue pairs well with afternoon drinking.

Village Centre Après Ski Bars (4:00 PM – 8:00 PM)

Best For Happy Hour

Le Petit Danois    From 8am to 2am, Le Petit Danois (or “Le Petit D” to locals) has anchored Val d’Isère’s nightlife for three decades with this genius formula: Viking-themed décor, massive portions, and the most generous happy hours in town (4-5pm and 9-10pm).

Mornings are great for full English breakfast (authentic Danish bacon) and by 4pm the music and Mutzig beers flow. I recommend coming at 10pm, crammed in for the live band in a sweaty, joyous mess. Famous toffee vodka shots are handed out free to pretty much anyone who asks nicely. We have launched a thousand bad decisions here.

I love this review: “Went for breakfast, stayed until 2am. Don’t remember much after the third round of toffee vodka, but apparently I sang Wonderwall with some French ski instructors. 10/10 would recommend.”

Saloon Bar    The Western-themed décor is cowboy kitsch, but the crowd is all Alpine. Seasonaires on their night off, students stretching budgets, and the odd stealth-millionaire.

Happy hour (4-7pm) has among the best deals in town, so it’s rammed by 4:15pm. The music is “whatever makes people drink more,” from country classics to Euro techno. My team like Saloon for the pool tables and sports screens.

Victor’s Bar    Victor’s can bridge afternoon skiing and evening mayhem with a sports bar atmos’. A British crowd, drawn by Premier League matches and proper pints (find Jack from SNO watching Arsenal).

I recommend their “Survival Burger” if you’re hungover.

More Sophisticated Options

La Taverne d’Alsace    If you want a break from techno and tequila, La Taverne oozes old-school Alpine charm. Exposed beams, roaring fires, and a really good wine list. Earn their superlative fondue, after a day battling the Vallée Perdue.

The crowd is older and more refined but, by 10pm, even the Swiss bankers are swaying to accordion music. ‘Explore’ the Alsatian wine selection  – the Rieslings go down easily at altitude.

Hotel Bar Circuit    Val d’Isère’s luxury hotels welcome non-guests. Le Blizzard Hotel’s bar has a huge fireplace and they make a terrific Old Fashioned, albeit €18. Watch snow fall past the window to a jazz piano soundtrack.

Le Tsanteleina’s M Bar mixologists treat each drink like a chemistry experiment but, when you’re paying €22 for a Martini, the theatre feels appropriate.

La Daille & Le Fornet Venues

La Daille Nightlife

Les Tontons (Bar des Tontons)    The ground floor is a buzzing sports bar and upstairs becomes a club after 10pm. It’s where La Daille’s season-workers drink. Wednesday live music sessions pull serious talent, but the reasonable prices reflect local rather than tourist budgets.

Rosée Blanche    At the bottom of the slopes I found what many claim is “the best vin chaud in the Alps.” The recipe is secret, but locals claim they taste honey, star anise… try it and tell me your opinion.

The sunny terrace makes it a nice stop after Folie Douce. Evening live acoustic sets provide relief from electronic beats.

Le Samovar Hotel Bar    A refined drinking experience with crackling fireplace, leather armchairs and the top-drawer cognac selection. Wednesday jazz nights are my fave.

Le Fornet Authentic Experience

Arolay Restaurant Bar    Le Fornet village has kept its authentic Savoyard atmos’ and I love the Arolay Restaurant’s for the local prices, local faces, and local génépi.

Evening dining is a blast from the past, with French families and old-timers, and a house red wine costing half that in Val Village.

Cable Car Station Bar    The main ent’s hub in Le Fornet is by the cable car station. Music includes French classics and the décor hasn’t changed much, which is why I love it.

Free shuttles run until 2am back to the main resort.

Evening Bars & Pre-Club Venues (8:00 PM – Midnight)

Live Music Venues

Le Lodge    One of the best for live music, hosting local French bands and touring British acts plus DJs.

Blue Note Bar    Lou and Matt’s claim to fame is the “Blue Note Challenge”. Finish their signature cocktail menu in one night and win… well, I’m not quite sure, because nobody’s managed it.

Coin des Amis    A tiny local’s favourite tucked down a side street with capacity for maybe 30 people, Coin des Amis is the anti-Folie Douce – intimate, authentic. Jules is a retired ski racer who pours génépi with a heavy hand. Conversation and liquor, Chez Jules is where locals, ski instructors and seasonaires relax.

Cocktail & Lounge Scene

L’Atelier d’Edmond    Michelin-starred chef Edmond Vatan opened this cocktail bar adjacent to his restaurant. The mixology rivals Paris or London, with bartenders trained by the world’s best.

I recommend the “Altitude Adjustment” (gin, Alpine herbs, champagne foam) famous on Instagram at €24. Crowd is successful 30-somethings who’ve graduated from Jägerbombs (so not me then…)

Cave de la Maison    For the serious oenophile, with the cellar stocking 400+ bottles. Natural and ‘biodynamic’ wines paired with cheese and charcuterie. The sommelier Marie, from Paris, brings big-city knowledge to Alpine drinking. Her Wednesday tasting sessions sell out so book if you’re keen.

Late Night Clubs & Party Venues (Midnight – 5:00 AM)

Legendary Institutions

Dick’s Tea Bar    Since 1979, Dick’s Tea Bar has defined Val d’Isère’s nightlife and I keep going back. The subterranean institution underwent a €2 million renovation, expanding to 500 while somehow keeping its gloriously-dated atmosphere.

The formula doesn’t change. Eye-watering prices (€18 for a basic vodka mixer), music that stopped evolving in 1995, and arbitrary door policy. Yet somehow, at 2am on any given night, you’ll the great and the good, and seasonaires… and me… united in terrible dancing.

Celebrities love it – Prince Harry’s infamous night here in 2011 remains the stuff of legend. I heard the 3am tea service (actual tea, served in proper cups) started as a joke but I’ve not seen it.

Doudoune Club    Hidden beneath Place Jacques Mouflier, Doudoune brings proper underground club culture to Val. Big DJs like Pete Tong and Danny Howard for when you want quality over kitsch.

Entry fees vary wildly, from ‘free before midnight’ on quiet nights, to €30+ when big names play. Their New Year’s Eve party has become legendary, but tickets sell out by November, so ask the team when you book your ski holiday.

Underground & Alternative

Le Graal Club    An alternative to Dick’s and the drinks cost marginally less. Thursday student nights offer rare Val d’Isère value, though “cheap” is relative at €6/beer.

Krystal Nightclub    Krystal targets the Courchevel overflow.

Underground Café    A middle ground between pub and club, with DJ sets, but it has an ace up its sleeve. It’s one of few places serving food until 2am – their pizza is essential drunk-fuel.

My Insider’s Playbook

Pick One Of My “Perfect-Nights”

Ski Hard, Party Harder Route    Start with 2pm lunch at La Folie Douce, staying for the 3pm show and subsequent madness. Around 5pm, carefully ski down to Le Petit Danois for happy hour and stomach lining. After dinner (La Casserole for value, L’Atelier for splashing out), warm up at Saloon Bar before hitting Dick’s at midnight. The rest I’ll leave you to figure out yourself.

Sophisticated Evening    Sunset cocktails at Le Blizzard Hotel bar (alpenglow through panoramic windows). Dinner at La Table de l’Ours (Michelin ambition with Alpine tradition). Live jazz at Le Lodge before descending to Doudoune for quality EDM. End at Cave de la Maison for a nightcap. Not a Red Bull in sight.

Local’s Night    Coin des Amis for genepy, then bus to Les Tontons in La Daille where seasonaires drink. Late night means finding who has the after-party. Locations change, but asking the right bartender works.

Val Money-Saving Strategies

Happy hours are your friend, 4-5pm and 9-10pm at most venues. Le Petit Danois has maybe the best value but several bars provide free shots – toffee vodka at Petit D, welcome schnapps at La Taverne.

Eating on the mountain costs more, but in town, plat du jour specials are cheapest. I prefer worker-focused spots like Café des Sports.

Group Planning

Large groups need strategy in Val d’Isère to get everyone in together. e.g. La Folie Douce requires reservations for any hope of seating together. Dick’s has VIP packages and Doudoune takes table bookings for the mezzanine level.

Our mixed group has varied tastes, so we start together at versatile venues like Le Lodge or La Taverne, then split as the night goes on.

Seasonal Variations & Events in VDI

How Busy is Peak Season? Christmas and New Year’s in Val d’Isère is max-capacity and max-prices. Book everything you possibly can – restaurants, VIP tables, even Dick’s entry during New Year’s week.

February half-term is full with families by day, mayhem by night (when parents cut loose). There are some of the best DJ lineups and special events.

Special Events I Love “WTF Wednesdays” at Folie Douce get progressively wilder through the season. Themes range from tropical beach parties (in January) to end-of-season staff parties that achieve legendary status.

Dick’s has occasional theme nights and Doudoune publishes monthly DJ schedules on Facebook.

Where To Drink In Bad Weather Bad weather days see mountain bars empty and town bars packed. Le Petit Danois becomes standing-room only by 3pm on whiteout days and we’ve sometimes been relegated to the hotel bar.

La Taverne’s “Blizzard Special” offers fondue and wine packages on storm days, and Cave de la Maison runs impromptu tasting sessions for trapped tourists.

Locals’ And Snoman’s Secret Spots

Seasonaire Sanctuaries Workers party differently than tourists – harder, cheaper, later. The Folie Douce staff hit Café des Sports after shifts, where beers cost half tourist prices. Wednesday nights are workers day off, with venues offering deals.  The secret action happens at house parties in worker accommodation. Making friends with seasonaires unlocks this parallel nightlife universe, where dawn arrives too quickly and work starts too early.

Alternative Scene If you don’t want techno and tequila, Le Barillon runs poetry nights in French. The Anglican church hosts a weekly pub quiz and Yoga studios hold “mindful drinking” sessions – meditation before natural wine tasting.

Did I Whet Your Après Appetite?

Val d’Isère’s nightlife is maybe the best in the whole skiing world because of the sheer variety and unapologetic excess. From Folie Douce’s altitude-enhanced insanity to Dick’s steadfast refusal to modernize, there are so many unique spots that are famous in their own right. Happy hours provide (relative) value, and the mix of tourists, seasonaires, and locals creates energy impossible to manufacture.

Whether you’re spraying champagne at 2,400m or sipping génépi in a hidden local’s bar, Val d’Isère delivers big nights as well as big bar bills.

I’ve had some of my best apres ski moments here in Val d’Isere – what happens in Dick’s stays in Dick’s.