Ultimate Beginner Skiers Guide To Val d’Isère
Val d’Isère Has Transformed Into A Beginner’s Paradise
Way back in 2005 I was producer of BBC’s “Holiday” programme. When I pitched a “Val d’Isère for beginners” feature to my editor, he actually laughed. That’s twenty years ago, and boy have things changed for beginners learning to ski in Val d’Isere. I was here in December 2016 when they unveiled the new €16 million Solaise beginner area. It’s still one of he most impressive beginner ski areas in the Alps. Magic carpets, a proper restaurant at altitude, and beginner slopes that would make Courchevel jealous. Val d’Isere earned a reputation as playground for off-piste nutters and Olympic wannabes hucking off La Face. But it’s now one of the best places in the Alps to learn to ski.
I’ve taken friends for their first ski holidays to Val d’Isere. Every one of them was linking turns down proper runs by day five, cruising down the Madeleine green by Wednesday.
Why Val d’Isère Works Brilliantly For Beginners
The Snow Is Ridiculously Reliable
In March 2022 I was in Méribel seeing grass showing through. I drove to mates’ in Val d’Isère and skied perfect corduroy from top to bottom.
The village is really high at 1,850m and the Solaise beginner area goes up to 2,551m. When other resorts are making snow in December, Val d’Isère’s already got a metre of the real stuff. They average 5.5m of snow annually and they’ve got 650 snow cannons for backup. In 20 years of visiting, I’ve never seen the beginner slopes in bad nick.
Those Free Lifts Make A Difference
A full area lift pass in not cheap, but as a beginner in Val d’Isere, you don’t need one. The Village chairlift? Free. The Savonnette drag? Free. You can easily spend two or three days learning the basics without forking out for a lift pass. You might next only want a beginner pass when you’re ready for Solaise. It’s only €40 a day compared to €85+ for the full Espace Killy pass, so you’re laughing.
Solaise: Where The Magic Happens
I cannot overstate how good the Solaise beginner area is. When they rebuilt it in 2016, they installed covered magic carpets. The Pim Pam (it’s actually a double carpet system) and the Poum – ridiculous names, brilliant lifts.
The snow up there is different class to what you get in village-level nursery slopes. The proper Alpine snow is cold, dry and easier to learn on and, on a clear day, you can see Mont Blanc.
Everyone Speaks English (Thank God)
Val d’Isère is French through and through (Chevallot boulangerie croissants make you weep). But finding English instruction is easier than finding après beers. ESF alone has 250+ English-speaking instructors. Then you’ve got the British-run schools like European Snowsport, plus Evolution 2, Oxygène…
I’ve overheard an ESF instructor switching seamlessly between French, English, Italian and Russian in a single lesson. Language is not a barrier here, but call ahead if you want Chinese lessons, like we did for Sky from the SNO tech team.
The Val d’Isere Beginner Areas
Solaise – Your New Best Friend
Solaise is where you want to be. Take the gondola from the village (included in your beginner pass). At the top, turn left into the huge the magic carpet area. The two carpets (Pim Pam is actually a double system) serve different gradients, so you progress naturally. Start on the gentler side and work your way up to the Madeleine green run. This might be when you first become a convert, starting right from the top of the gondola and winding gently all the way back to the village. It’s wide, beautifully groomed, and just steep enough to feel like proper skiing without being scary. I’ve watched so many beginners crack this run and suddenly “get” skiing. Magic moment every time.
Once you’ve nailed Madeleine, the whole mountain opens up. Génépy green is your next target (lovely little cruiser). Then the blues – Edelweiss is perfect for building confidence, and the “M” run… well, that’s where things get interesting.
Village Centre – Where It All Begins
Those free lifts I mentioned are right in the centre of town. The Village chairlift serves Les Lanches nursery slope. It’s a bit of a zoo during French school holidays (avoid February half term or go higher) but it’s ideal for day one.
The Savonnette is a drag lift, which for some is a bit trickier than a chairlift, but it’s free, so why not?
SNO Pro tip: Get to these slopes at 8:30am when they’re freshly groomed and empty. By 11am it’s carnage – ski school groups everywhere.
La Daille – The Budget Option
Down at the bottom of the valley, La Daille is where spend-savvy beginners base themselves. Cheaper accommodation, its own nursery slope with a magic carpet, and honestly? It’s less intimidating than the main village.
The only faff is the bus to Val d’Isère centre. But it’s only 10 minutes, runs every 15, and is free with your lift pass though. I stayed here my first visit and saved enough to fund an extra trip.
Le Fornet – My Secret Weapon
Once you can handle a green run confidently (day 4 or 5), jump on the bus to Le Fornet. This tiny hamlet is about 2km past Val d’Isère. I’ve sent nervous beginners up there because they come back grinning like Cheshire cats. Empty pistes, stunning scenery, and runs that build confidence. Take the cable car up, then the Vallon bubble, to find the most gorgeous, quiet, rolling blue runs in the entire resort.
Choosing The Right Val d’Isere Ski School (Important)
ESF are the Big Beast
400 instructors, like a small army in red jackets. ESF (École du Ski Français) is the trad choice. The teaching style is quite French – technical, structured, focused on getting your technique right from the start. Some find it a bit rigid, but it works. RichT from SNO learned with ESF and his technique is annoyingly good.
Meeting points are impossible to miss, with massive ESF flags at Solaise and in the village. Morning lessons run 9am-12pm, afternoons 2pm-5pm. Book the morning as afternoon snow can be choppy and you’ll be knackered anyway. You’ll pay €72 for 3 hours in a group, but check their website for package deals.
Evolution 2 The Local Cool Kids
With smaller groups (max 8) and younger instructors, Evo 2 is where I send friends who are nervous about skiing. They do a brilliant “Never Ever” course for complete beginners, with no prior knowledge assumed and lots of games.
They’re based right next to the Bellevarde gondola and cost from €85 for half-day groups.
European Snowsport Have The British Touch
Run by Brits, for Brits, they understand the British mentality (ie, nervous but trying not to show it). Brilliant with adults who think they’re too old to learn. I sent my 59-year-old pal to them and he was skiing blues by day six. They do video analysis and seeing yourself ski is… enlightening, but it really helps. They’re based up at La Daille but run courses all over the mountain. Prices from €95 for morning group sessions.
Oxygène Are The Innovators
Oxygène do things differently with smaller groups, focus on fun rather than endless technical drills. They’ve got a “Beginner Pack” that includes equipment and lift pass – if you can’t be arsed organizing everything separately. They’re brilliant with kids their adult groups are top notch, with a speciality in Adaptive skiing. Look for the blue and orange jackets. A 6-day beginner package from €399 all-in.
Where To Stay In Val (Avoiding Bankruptcy)
Val d’Isère Centre Is Convenient But Can Be Pricey
If money’s no object, stay in the village centre. You can walk to everything – lifts, ski school, restaurants, that dodgy karaoke bar you’ll end up in on Thursday night (La Taverne, you’ve been warned).
The swanky hotels like Le Tsanteleina and Le Blizzard (not ski-in/ski-out but near enough) are terrific hotels, but there are bargain apartments (ask the SNO team). The Solaise area has loads of decent self-catering options. I particularly rate the apartments near the Spar, where you can nip down for croissants in your slippers. Expect to pay £1,500-2,500 per week for a 2-bed apartment in peak season. January’s cheaper and the best deals are usually packages with flights and transfers included. My pick in Val is always going to be a catered chalet filled with friends or the family.
La Daille Is Where Smart People Beginners Stay
Controversial opinion: La Daille is better for beginners than Val d’Isère centre. Yes, it’s a purpose-built bit from the 1960s but it no longer looks like a communist housing project. It’s got everything you need – nursery slope, supermarket, equipment hire, restaurants – and it’s a third cheaper than the main village.
Those apartment blocks aren’t pretty, but they’re warm, practical, and close to the lifts. We book lots of clients into Les Hauts de la Vanoise and the Residence Soleil. The free shuttle bus runs every 10-15 minutes until midnight, so visting Val d’Isère for dinner is easy. Budget €800-1,200 per week for a 2-bed.
Le Fornet Is A Proper Alpine Experience
If you want the “chocolate box Alpine village” , Le Fornet’s your spot. It’s tiny – maybe 10 buildings total – but utterly charming. Our catered chalets Atamaca and Les Sources are barely 200m from the Fornet cable car. Beginners can take the reliable 2km shuttle to the main nursery slopes in Val and, after a day on the slopes, coming back to peaceful Le Fornet is bliss.
VDI Kit Rental – Don’t Cock This Up
Where To Rent
Whatever you do, don’t buy gear for your first trip – it’s an absolute waste of money. You don’t know what you need yet, and you’ll end up with unsuitable kit gathering dust in your garage (ask me how I know).
Jock and Susan’s team at Snowberry are my go-to. Not the cheapest but probably the best, and trust me, badly fitted boots will ruin your holiday faster than food poisoning. Precision Ski is also solid, or Ski Republic. Book before you go, for discounts and to avoid queuing on Saturday afternoon. Most places let you swap equipment if it’s not right, so don’t stress about getting it perfect first time. €25-50 per day for skis, boots and poles.
What You Actually Need
- Skis: Shorter than you think, but the shop will get this right if you explain you’re a beginner. Never give a fake weight during ski/boot fitting, because they need to set the release on your bindings so they will come out when you crash (instead of breaking your knees).
- Boots: Should be quite snug but not hurt. When you stand up the toes should pull away from the front of the boots
- Poles: The right height is when your elbow makes a 90-degree angle, or thereabouts.
- Helmet: Not legally required but don’t be daft. Wear one.
Clothing (The Expensive Bit)
Layering is not rocket science but people always balls it up.
Base layer: Thermal top and bottoms. NOT COTTON. I love merino wool but synthetic is fine. Uniqlo do decent cheap ones.
Mid layer: Fleece or puffy jacket. You’ll probably take this off by 11am and I spend most days skiing with it tied around my waist, but some days it’s essential.
Outer layer: Waterproof jacket and salopettes/pants. Doesn’t need to be fancy and Decathlon stuff is fine for beginners.
The other bits:
- Gloves or mittens (mittens are warmer but you look like a toddler)
- Ski socks (take two pairs but wear one, not both, or you’ll get blisters)
- Neck warmer (essential when it’s -15°C)
- Goggles (I’d recommend amber/orange lenses for all conditions)
- Sun cream SPF 50 (the sun up here is vicious)
- Lip balm with SPF (chapped lips really sting at apres ski shots)
First Week Snowplough To… Slightly Better Snowplough
Monday – Welcome To Your New Obsession
First day is always chaos. You’ll spend an hour getting boots on, wonder why you thought this was a good idea, and fall over getting off the lift.
Stick to the free village lifts and focus on standing up, sliding in a straight line, and learning to stop without sitting down. Your thighs will burn and this is normal.
Tuesday – Things Start Clicking
Back to the village slopes for the morning, but something’s changed. You can actually turn! Sort of. By afternoon, you might be ready for Solaise. Take the gondola up (your first real mountain experience – savour it), and hit the Pimpam magic carpet.
Suddenly you’re at 2,500m, surrounded by proper mountains, and you’re skiing. Badly, but still. Magic.
Wednesday – The Breakthrough Day
This is it. The day you attempt your first proper run. The Madeleine beckons. Your instructor will take you to the start, and you’ll think “absolutely not.” But then you’ll start down, remember to breathe, and…
You’re doing it. You’re actually skiing down a mountain. The feeling when you reach the bottom is nothing short of exultation.
Thursday – Confidence Building
Madeleine again in the morning (it’ll feel easier already), then maybe try Génépy in the afternoon. You’re starting to link turns properly now, controlling your speed without defaulting to the emergency snowplough every three seconds.
This is usually when people get cocky and try something too hard. Don’t. Stick to greens and easy blues. Plenty of time for heroics next trip.
Friday – Exploring Time
If you’re feeling confident, today’s the day for Le Fornet. Those rolling blues I mentioned are perfect for building flow and rhythm. Or explore more of Solaise where I would recommend the ‘OK’ run’s Insta-worthy views.
Some novices might be ready for the “M” run by now because it’s a blue, but a friendly one. Wide, not too steep, usually well-groomed. Give it a go if you’re feeling brave.
Saturday – Victory Lap
Last day. You’re a skier now (sort of). Spend it cruising your favourite runs, maybe attempting one last new blue. Download in the gondola with a massive grin and a phone full of photos nobody back home will want to see. You’ll already be planning next year’s holiday. Trust me on this.
Mountain Restaurants Above Val d’Isere
On Solaise – The Beginner-Friendly Options
Le Solaise Restaurant Right at the top of the gondola. Massive sun terrace, views to die for, and crucially you can ski straight to it on a green run. The pasta’s decent and (relatively) reasonably priced €15 for spag bol, €8 for a beer. Gets rammed at 12:30 so go early or late.
L’Ouillette Bit fancier, bit pricier, but that truffle pasta at €28 worth every penny. Book ahead (we can ask your hotel to do it) and sit outside if it’s sunny. Access is via the easy bit of the Madeleine green.
Village Level – Easy Access
Café Bellevarde Bottom of the gondola, perfect for meeting non-skiing mates. Does a mean croque monsieur, €12 for lunch, €6 for drinks. Busy but quick turnover.
L’Etincelle Just above the village slopes, with great mountain food like tartiflette.
The Wild Card
La Folie Douce It’s nuts but you have to experience it once. Take the gondola up (don’t try to ski there as a beginner), grab lunch (surprisingly good), and watch the 3pm show. Dancing on tables in ski boots, champagne showers, absolute carnage. Kelly Starlight is the ultimate showman – we once filmed with him for the Beeb.
Download in the gondola before 4pm when it gets messy. You’ve been warned.
What To Do When Not Skiing (Dead Leg Days)
Centre Aquasportif If Your Hotel/Apt Has No Facilities
Swimming pool, wellness area with saunas and steam rooms, climbing wall, gym… Perfect for soothing destroyed muscles.
Go at 5pm when everyone’s at après-ski. €20 for a day pass, €65 for the week. Love the outdoor hot tub while it’s snowing.
Fun Non-Skiing Stuff In Val
Ice skating: Outdoor rink in the village is €8 including skate hire.
Snowshoeing: Beautiful marked trails from Le Fornet. Rent shoes from a sports shop, about €15/day.
Husky sledding: The dogs are bonkers but friendly. €120 for 30 minutes, book through the tourist office.
Paragliding: Tandem flights from €150 for insane views but I’m too scared.
VDI Après-Ski That Won’t Kill You
Start gentle. Beginners + too much altitude + alcohol = disaster.
Café Face: Right in the village, easy stumble home from good pizzas and cocktails.
L’Atelier: Bit classier and cocktails are pricier from €15+.
Cocorico: Gets lively but not always La-Folie-mental. Live music some nights. Try the mutzig beer.
Dick’s Tea Bar: It’s an institution, since 1979 and gets loose after 10pm.
Saving Money (Because Val d’Isère Ain’t Cheap)
There’s no point sugar-coating it – Val d’Isère can be expensive. But there are lots of ways to ski and stay here on a modest budget:
- Book everything online in advance – Equipment and ski school can save 10-20% earlybird.
- Use those free lifts – No need for a lift pass your first couple of days.
- Beginner lift pass – €40 vs €85+ for full area after day 2 or 3.
- Lunch in the village – €15 vs €30 on the mountain. Ski down or download in the gondola.
- Happy hours – Most bars do them 4-6pm when pints are €5 instead of €8.
- Supermarket dinner one night – The Spar does decent ready meals vs eating out every night will bankrupt you.
- January or late March – Avoid school holidays if possible. A third cheaper and half the people.
Common Novice Cock-Ups To Avoid
- Skiing without lessons – “I’m sporty, I’ll figure it out.” Nope. You’ll hurt yourself or someone else.
- Wearing jeans – They get wet then freeze and you’ll be miserable.
- Going too hard too early – Your legs aren’t ready for 6 hours of skiing on day one. Build up slowly.
- Liquid lunch – One beer is fine, but three pints and a génépy?..
- Not downloading – Tired beginners + busy slopes at 3pm = accidents. Take the lift down.
- Ignoring altitude – You’re at 2,000m+ so drink water constantly to avoid the headache from hell.
- Being too proud – Everyone starts somewhere. That 5-year-old flying past you? She’s been skiing since she could walk. You haven’t. Relax.
Getting Here
We organise everything in one package for you, but we also book accom-only when clients have arranged independent travel, so here’s a few notes on getting there yourself.
From Geneva (most common) is a 3-hour transfer but flights are usually cheapest. Shared transfers with the likes of Ben’s Bus, Alpybus, etc. run from about €75 each way. Private transfers from €400 per vehicle. Split between 4 isn’t too bad. Hire cars are useful for exploring but parking in resort can be €50/day for underground parking.
From Lyon it’s 3.5 hours with the same transfer options.
From Chambéry is a shorter 2 hours but limited flights. Good for weekends.
By Train (eco favourite) Eurostar to Paris, TGV to Bourg-Saint-Maurice, bus to resort. Takes all day but you can drink wine and watch the mountains get closer.
Seriously though, it’s so much less faff and stress to book a package ski holiday rather than DIY. Just call or drop us a line and we’ll give you some options, or browse package deals.
When To Come To VDI
December – Pre-Christmas is quiet and they’ve got enough cannons to cope ensure early snow. Christmas is magical and New Year week is so fun.
January – Quiet slopes, cold yet sunny days, everything’s cheaper. Avoid French Zone B holidays (check online, it changes yearly but ends 4th Jan in 2026).
February – Peak season and guaranteed snow. Half-term week is absolute bedlam but really buzzy atmosphere – expect occasional queues for a lift.
March – Warmer longer days and good prices and gorgeous weather. Easter is a cheaper alternative to February half-term but with less perfect snow.
April – End of season vibe is brilliant with barbecues, spring skiing conditions, deals galore. Snow up high is still good but don’t expect perfect corduroy at village level.
The Safety Lecture (Sorry, But Important)
Ski Insurance Is Not Optional
Your EHIC/GHIC covers basic medical but NOT mountain rescue. A helicopter off the mountain costs €3,000+ so get proper winter sports insurance.
On-Mountain Safety
- Helmets aren’t legally required but wear one anyway.
- Stay on marked pistes – off-piste is not a good idea for beginners.
- Normally I’d say check the avalanche risk daily (flags at lift stations) but it’s not an issue on debutante slopes. If the piste says closed, just don’t go down it.
- Emergency number is 112 (works on any network) and piste patrol number is +33 4 79 06 02 10
Common Sense Stuff
- Altitude makes you dehydrated, so you need to drink water constantly.
- Apply more sun cream every 2-3 hours minimum as it’s really easy to burn with both sun and reflected light off the snow.
- If visibility’s bad anought that you can’t see the trail markers, go and relax in a mountain restaurant or head down via a lift.
Why Val d’Isère Will Ruin You For Other Resorts
Here’s the thing nobody tells you about learning in Val d’Isère – everywhere else can feel a bit ‘meh’ afterwards.
You’ll go to other resorts and wonder why the snow’s not as good. Why the mountain restaurants are bang average. Why you can’t ski from 2,500m as a beginner. Why the instructors are not as hot (that one’s from my wife). You’ve been spoiled, basically. But that’s fine because you learned to ski in one of the world’s truly great ski resorts. You learned at altitude, on proper snow, with Mont Blanc as your backdrop.
My first ever ski run was a dry slope in England and school ski trip to hostel, in a two-drag town. I still loved it, but imagine starting here instead? Cruising down Madeleine from Solaise with the whole Alps spread out before you.
That’s why I bring beginners to Val d’Isere. Sure it’s more expensive than Bansko or Andorra but, get your first taste of proper mountains, proper snow, proper skiing? You’re hooked for life.
How To Book Your Learn-To-Ski Trip To Val d’Isere
If you’ve made it this far, you’re clearly serious about learning to ski. And if you’re going to do it, do it properly, Val d’Isère’s waiting for you.
Call our team of friendly experts – it’s our job to ensure you find the perfect Val d’Isere ski holiday – 020 7770 6888.
When you’re standing at the top of Madeleine, looking down at what seems like an impossibly long run, remember – thousands of beginners have done this before you. You’ve got this.
See you in the Cocorico for après. First round’s on you.
Learn more about Val d’Isere ski holidays, call us for help choosing or browse package deals.
