Archive for the ‘Grand Alpine Ski Resorts Tour’ Category

Meribel Ski Holidays

Tuesday, November 30th, 2010

Meribel is, without doubt, the longest running favourite ski holidays resort of British skiers and snowboarders.  Here’s what I said on Telegraph online about Meribel ski holidays.

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a funny thing happened on my Meribel ski holiday

Ski holidays in Meribel can be anything you want them to be…

… from a wild and crazy week spent between pulling in Dicks T-Bar and mile-eating across the 3 Valleys…

… to a beautifully refined experience being cossetted in a catered Meribel ski chalet

… and everything in between.

So adept is Meribel at catering to every Brit ski taste, that they’ve had to grow a second Meribel called “Mottaret”, which means that you can have the “Meribel experience” even in the very height of season.

If you can afford it, stay in or near the centre of town, because skiing Meribel is about more than just the experience on the mountain.  Yes, you have central access to the largest ski area in the world, so lets say that awesome days on the hill are a given… and talk about the Meribel apres ski

… and Meribel ski holidays are ALL about the apres!

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another nicely lubricated lunch with Meribel Rob

The two chaps who run Bar-O (don’t say the full name “Bar-O-meter” unless you want to be marked out as a complete tourist) make sure this is perhaps the most reliably relaxed and cool spot to sink a shandy or two…

… the legend that is the Evolution bar (again, you have to say “Evo” to be down with the kids) is an essential gps coordinate on your iPhone…

… and it seems written into local byelaws that any big day on the hill must segway into an even bigger evening in Meribel resort via a massive kick-start at le Rond Point…

… but Meribel is teeming with famous (in the ski bum world) places to create your own personal ski holiday war stories, so go explore.

I should recomend my own ski resort guide … but, in truth… the best thing to do in Meribel is learn from the Master…

… read the website of Meribel Rob (its called Meribel Unplugged) and you’ll find the best places to eat drink and stay, with no B-S and no bias (as another great guide is famous for saying).

What ever you do for your winter travel, you won’t go far wrong by doing it on a Meribel ski holiday – ignore it’s detractors, they’re either jealous, pompous or have never been.

Meribel is one of those rare exceptions, where being a jack of all trades actually leads to being master of quite a few of them too!

more ski holidays and ski resorts after this “airstream for sale” post

Friday, April 23rd, 2010

As if the prove this was not a series of ski holidays, while the alpine ski resorts tour tour got busier this blog got further behind, but I still have all the pictures and stories from the next 2 months of our 3 month alpine tour of 30+ ski resorts, so please check back and I’ll write more soon…

… in the meantime, our mobile ski resort guide sno mobi has exploded (well over 10,000 page views per week at the height of the ski holidays season) and we are about to start providing ski holidays from the all top UK ski holidays and ski travel companies, so we can help you find the best cheap ski holidays and ski deals too!

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our gorgeous vintage airstream for sale

Before the next airstream tour and ski holidays blog, I’m both sad and excited to announce that our wonderful 1966 vintage Airstream caravans for sale in the UK – SORRYSOLD – we don’t have more to sell so you can read how to go get one from the US yourself in the blogs below or contact a reputable supplier like ARC Airstream.

Airstream pictures and “uk airstream for sale” info is in the “pages” link call “airstream caravans for sale” on the right of this page

Our ski holidays are now live! - check out our ski holidays on your mobile and ski resorts right here on sno.co.uk

All skiing holidays, from all ski travel companies, on one page – ski deals and cheap ski holidays?  sno problem!

The Day the Wheels Fell Off the Grand Alpine Tour

Thursday, October 29th, 2009
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one of our wheels – its not supposed to look like that

After a glorious first fortnight in the French alps – some truly memorable days in the ski holiday hotspots of Alpe d’Huez, Les Deux Alpes and La Grave- it was time to up-sticks from our first campsite in Bourg d’Oisans and head for our next sojourn in Brides les Bains, below the ski resorts of the legendary Les Troi Vallees.

Many things happened in between getting up that morning and our leg-stretch stop 2’30″ into the 3 hour drive… but this post is a pictorial account of how the last 30 minute leg turned into a rather more eventful few hours of highway high-jinks.

If it can go wrong, it will go wrong.

Murphy’s law had been pretty much in effect all day, but we remained cheary and confident that we would get to Brides les Bains with plenty of time to get settled before dark & enjoy a relatively easy day.  For once, we had no work planned, only a little travel.

Stopping for a freshen up, Iddi returned to my driver’s window and said “you know the back doors gone”

“its gone?”

“yes”

“what do you mean?”

“its gone”

“gone?”

“yes”

“gone how?”

“its gone”

“broken?”

“gone”

“gone as in bent?”

“no, its gone”

“you mean its not working?”

“no, its gone”

… this went on for some time until Iddi eventually elaborated,

“its not there anymore”

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what do you mean the back door is gone? it’s not there any more

The rear door could have fallen off at any time during the last two and a half hours drive… it would take up to 5 hours to retrace our route and get back to where we were now.

This was one of those moments when you completely reframe your ambitions for the day – our hope for a casual day of travel and camping evaporated and was replaced by the goal of merely getting to the new location with all of our caravan.

We paid the toll to leave the highway, took a new ticket (to pay to retrace our steps) and headed back on the opposite carriageway… our biggest fear was not finding this rare piece of a vintage caravan at all… but only just ahead of our fear of finding it right back at the entrance to the campsite we had left!

… it was then that we caught our first piece of luck that day, or so we hoped… just 2 miles down the road, Iddi thought she saw an appropriately sized piece of shiny metal on the opposite shoulder.

“was it our door?”

“it was the right size”

“but was it our door – should I turn around?”

“it was the right shape”

“how confident are you? should we turn around?”

“I think that might have been it”

We turned off at the next exit and Murphy’s Law resumed… it was not a junction, but a slip road onto another highway with no way to turn around.

Long story cut short, we eventually turned around, got back onto the first highway and started to guestimate the distance to where “possibly our door” had been seen…

… and then…

brrrum-brrum, brrum, brrrum, brr… HUGE vibrations and the rear of the car started to move around without warning…

… can our luck really be that bad?

I tried to imagine what extra carnage our missing door might wreak, but could think of nothing.  I slowed down and pulled onto the shoulder.

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one utterly shredded airstream tyre

In a completely unrelated event, fate had dealt us a second caravanning-based hammer blow.  A flat tyre might seem trivial but, in my head, it was the end of the world… here’s why:

- I bought the airstream in Arizona with no spare wheel

- a spare wheel is a legal requirement in the UK & Europe so I ordered one, with tyre from a Brit tyre dealer, in the American 6 stud configuration (unusual in Europe) … planning to try it on the Airstream before leaving the UK, but…

You get the picture… I had a missing door, where the whole bathroom might fall out… a tyre blow out… and a spare wheel that might not fit on the axle… on a French highway shoulder we didn’t quite fit on… and, I then discovered, our warning triangle was missing (also a legal requirement in France).

I didn’t expect the next hour to go well.

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Iddi directs juggernaughts away from snoman changing wheel

But, as Churchill once said, “if you’re going through hell, keep going!” - in the face of such adversity, we could but bravely press ahead.

While I’ve never caravanned before, I understood it would be far easier to change a tyre on a twin axle – no jack required – by simply driving the good tyre up one of our levelling-ramps.  Hey-presto, the flat tyre is off the ground and ready to be removed!

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ramp is under the good tyre – ready to swap out the blow out

 

Audentis fortuna juvet

As if to reward such quick thinking, the hastily bought spare wheel fitted perfectly…

… within a few short minutes we were rolling again and pondering how, if we were not driving on the shoulder, had the “probably our door” managed to get onto the shoulder?

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I’m sure this door was a different shape the last time I saw it

We arrived at the door half a mile later and discovered exactly how - at least one truck had helpfully bounced it onto the shoulder by driving over it.  The door was bent but intact the damage looked salvagable.

I predict a lot of DIY in my near future

While picking up the door, a French policeman arrived and I explained the whole saga – I can’t tell you how relieved I was that he arrived after the fact – we might have been looking at a fine for not carrying a warning triangle too!  Needless to say I bought one the very next day.  Luck was still shining on us when, at the next service stop, we met the same chap – he shared a few laughs and took a family picture.

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one odd wheel and door in back of car, but alls well that ends well

The mere ‘good day’ we had hoped for was ultimately far surpassed by the jubilation of rescuing that day, and ourselves, from catastrophe – we arrived triumphal in Camping La Piat, masters of our own destiny, and resolved to not think about the repairs until manana.  To the chirrup of some encouraging and also some mick-takingtweets, we enjoyed a glass or three… and went to sleep satisfied.

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Jimmy inspects airstream spare wheel – father elsewhere in vino euphoria

NEXT:    Val Thorens – the highest ski resort in Europe

(add your Val Thorens ski holiday business now to SNO.mobi ski holidays guide and I’ll name-check you in the next blog post)

La Grave – beautiful & deadly – ski resort crying out to be in a bond film

Sunday, October 25th, 2009
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what no lifts & trails? la grave looks like alpine wilderness… because it is

On the fringe of conventional ski holidays can be found the odd ski resort with a special reputation - here’s what La Grave.com has to say aboutskiing la grave:

 

“By exploring the domain of La Grave-La Meije, you are not in a typical ski resort.
This is a real mountain environment as you head down in an unmarked, and non-patrolled area at your own risk.

You must be aware of all mountain hazards including rocks, avalanches, crevasses, and be ready for the possibility of drastic weather changes.

In 30 minutes, the cable-car (téléphérique) takes you to 3200m, where you can create your own itinerary for the descent. You can choose from vast glacial escapes to steep chutes, a world away from the marked trails, the ropes, and the signs of a ski resort. Let your skill level and your inspirations guide you.

This freedom requires a certain technical level, but more importantly humility, responsibility, and respect for Mother Nature.
For yours and everyone’s well-being and piece of mind, you need to take certain precautions before heading out.”

This is the (no) piste map:

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thats right, there is no piste on the la grave piste map

Unlike pretty much any other ski area in the world, on the la grave piste mapthe “restaurant” symbol is heavily outnumbered by the “severe danger” symbol.

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perhaps the most dangerous “beautiful place” in the alps

There’s no doubt that La Grave is something special… and perhaps your skiing needs a little magic too, to fully appreciate what it has to offer.

But you don’t need to be Doug Coombs to ski la grave – you can enjoy spectacular off piste heaven in comparative safety if you (1) hire a ski guide and (2) are very honest about your skiing or snowboarding ability.

The ski village made for a bond film

 

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I planned to seduce the beautiful Swiss agent, but the Austrian dwarf got there first

While I’ve yet to find a ski resort I have not enjoyed skiing and apres ski in, there are in truth very few places left in the mountains that maintain the style, charm and authenticity of the Cortina or Saint Moritz of old…

… staying and skiing in la grave is the closest you can get (in 2010) to being in a 60′s Bond movie.

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I dispatched the Austrian dwarf, but the French shepherd had me hemmed in…

La grave is beautiful, unspoiled and, as is given away by the cars parked in its streets, that perfectly vintage-glam mix of old local familes and old-money ski-tourist.

No doubt there’s more than the odd parvenu here, but you can kid yourself that you’re rubbing shoulders with discreet European minor royalty and David Niven types.

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was that Stephanie de Monaco? don’t stare, act casual… talk loudly about how many ponies you need to play polo full time

It created for us the perfect foil forLa Grave, to visitAlpe d’Huez and Les Deux Alpes before coming here.

The latter two ski resorts provide everything that the modern package ski holiday maker has come to expect from their ski holidays – massive and modern lift infrastructure, huge variety of accommodation, eateries and nightlife, well organised on piste safety.

La Grave is everything that the modern ski resort is not – un-pisted (if not entirely un-patrolled), beautifully aged mountain village, small apres ski scene, higher cost of guided skiing.

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beautiful mountain village is the antithesis of a ski resort

La Grave might not fit most peoples idea of aperfect ski resort, but that’s precisely its charm – the authenticity of a proper, old fashioned mountain village, coupled with proper all-mountain skiing and snowboarding.

Un-pisted, un-tamed… un-safe?  possibly.

Un-dimned, un-blunted, un-spoiled?  Definitely.

And we love it!

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Jimmy says “get your piste-softened, lift-cossetted, choc-chaud-pampered arse out on a real mountain”

NEXT:    The Day the Wheels Fell Off – Murphy’s law takes charge of the Grand Alpine Tour next leg to Bourg Saint Maurice & Les 3 Vallees.

Jimmy & daddy amuse each other – Grand Alpine Tour interlude

Saturday, October 17th, 2009

There isn’t much about ski holidays or ski resorts here I’m afraid - this is probably one for family & friends really… & anyone who likes characterful/cute toddlers – pictures shot in Les 2 Alpes, posted in chronological order, Jimmy is 21 months old:

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ok, do “serious face”, no smiling allowed!

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try again – now, be very serious – no smiling…

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Please help to feed & clothe this poor child, by adding a link to http://www.sno.co.uk everywhere you can online…

… your Facebook & MySpace pages, websites, blogs, school/college/university website - as many places as you can…

(anchor text “ski holidays” is ideal)

… our hope is that no-one reading will tell themselves  “its ok if I don’t bother, someone else will”… and then everyone goes and makes this small effort for us…

… if you all do, we’ll have a ski holidays business we can make a living from… and be able to work in the mountains, where we like to be.

snoman, Iddi & Jimmy.

NEXT:   La Grave – is this the most attractive deadly-place in the world?

Les Deux Alpes – the upside down ski resort

Saturday, October 17th, 2009
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sno mobile is above the ski lifts but no sno yet

We all know how learning to ski or snowboard goes – you spend your first wobbly day or two of the ski holiday within arms length of the cafes, on a nursery slope as steep as… well its almost completely flat. Then you progress a little further from the ski resort up the hill and find a slightly steeper bit called a green run.. and then a blue piste to go a bit quicker… and so on until you’re taking ski lifts high up the mountain to the top ski lifts where the best snow and most extreme gradients (and rates of decent) are to be found.

Not so when skiing Les 2 Alpes

Often called “the upside down ski resort”, Les Deux Alpes is so named because, unlike pretty much every other major ski resort in the world, 2 Alpes keeps its easiest and nursery slopes at the top of the mountain… and its fiendishly challenging stuff down at the bottom near town.

This has two VERY important consequences:

1. it is one of the best places to learn to ski and snowboard in the world

2. it is one of the scariest places for a beginner to miss the last lift back down in the world

Set your alarm for 15:30 and find a lift down!

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beginner slopes up on the glacier

With the biggest skied glacier in Europe you can get plenty of summer piste time in at Les 2 Alpes, but the highest area can be shut down in winter if blizzards make it unsafe. Les Deux Alpes is probably best known as the home of one of Europe’s if not the worlds top snow parks, which is moved up and rebuilt from its winter 2600m to 3200 for the summer season.  Near the top, Les Deux Alpes is also linked to the legendary off piste of La Grave – only to be attempted with amountain guide!

You wouldn’t believe it if you’d walked and driven around with us, but Les 2 Alpes is also the second oldest ski resort in France (after Chamonix Mont Blanc).  A very dificult fact to take in, as you navigate this enormous and modern looking ski town.

Arriving for a quick day of work there in early October, we probably couldn’t have picked a quieter time to visit, but we were still amazed by how utterly deserted it felt.

Crossing from one empty street into a second, we were stopped by a huge shaven-headed biker with black paint brush in hand.

He turned out to be a a cracking chap from Paris, down to help his friend do up her bar, and a huge fan of vintage Americana - expressing his enthusiasm in much better English than my French, we couldn’t but stop and invite the whole family in for a closer inspection.  (sorry for not taking a picture, we got carried away gassing about bikes & caravans in franglais)

As fickle as I know it sounds, this one encounter completely changed my opinion of the place and its now at the top of the “must go back to” list for this season.  As I used to say when making telly, its always about the people.

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having met only 1 business owner, will Les Deux Alpe “get” www.SNO.mobi ?

We put our little post card into pretty much every business and accommodation letterbox we could find but met just one business owner in this entire ski resort – how useful is that going to be for getting SNO known in 2 Alpes?

Would you believe that Les Deux Alpes has had one of the biggest responses and new business Listings created since we launched last season!

snowboard Les Deux Alpes skiing: Les 2 Alpes weather | les 2 alpes webcamsnowboard les 2 alpes

 

NEXT:    La Grave – off piste mecca, but did you know the village was so beautiful, unspoiled and posh!

(add your La Grave business on the Get Listed page of our ski holidays guide, I’ll name-check you in the next blog post)